Unicorns and Manatees

We were so excited to actually make it to Totoco- after reading about traveling on Sundays we were a little leary...but we made it. And all in one piece I might add. The roads are downright scary. There was one road in that was paved and the rest were just a random mix of dirt, sand, rocks, holes...not to mention all the cows, chickens, roosters, dogs, people and occasional oxen crossing...we made a sharp right turn off the main road and if I thought it couldn't get any worse- I was way wrong...the road to Totoco was horrific and we later learned it was basically cleared and laid by the owners (or their crew of locally hired workers). At any rate. We were here...sitting in a tree top bungalow with the other new guests enjoying lunch...

After lunch we took a walk down to the pool...it was perched on the top of a hillside with clear views of Volcan Concepcion on the other side. The water seemed a bit cool since it was rather windy today...there were 3 cabanas, each with 2 lounge chairs and a handmade blind made out of what appeared to be bamboo (mom- maybe we should have considered these instead?)

Pablo, one of the hotel workers who looked like he couldn't be more than 15 - although Brian swears he must have been 18-20. He was small framed but insisted on carrying both of our duffle bags (did I mention my luggage expanded since Granada??) over to our cabin called: Bamboo. It was a rectangular-sized room with an open porch with views of concepcion, 2 hammocks and a small table and chairs. Pablo opened the door to reveal a queen sized bed with mosquito netting, thatched hut vaulted ceilings, unobstructed volcano views to the right and the bathroom was basically outside. He opened the bathroom door to let the sun spill in...the composting toilet was just to the left up three hand laid stone steps...this should be interesting. The sink was to the right and consisted of a natural stone vanity and water flowed freely down a slab of slate into the sink...down a few steps into the open-air shower which Pablo explained was heated through the compost pile. Pleasant. He wouldn't leave without first explaining how to use the toilet and what to do with organic and inorganic waste...

Ok so the toilet...it's a hole except it has a thick wooden cap with a handle that fits neatly into it to seal it off (this system was far more advanced than SE Asia or Peru)...you open it up to reveal a funnel towards the front and a deep hole in the back (requiring precise aim as you can imagine the funnel is intended for urine only). There is a huge bucket underneath which they change 3 times per day (I feel terrible for the guy who has that job). Everytime you use it you are supposed to add 3 scoops (will be a long time before I'll crave raisen bran again) of sawdust to the bucket. They collect all of the 'waste' and put it in a general compost pile...there are pipes running through that pile and they use the heat that's generated to heat our shower...lovely.

Pablo left and we quickly changed into our swimsuits and headed for the pool. Brian jumped in but I considered it too windy..there was another couple at the pool: Janet reading on her iPad and Peter on his kindle. We learned they were from NYC- both avid readers (Janet gave me some great tips on how to keep a bookclub going strong) and they love to travel. They participate in a home exchange program which is part of the reason they came to Nicaragua. Brian ran up to the bar and got himself a local brew: Victoria and a mojito for me which was heaven...crystallized sugar clumped at the bottom and clear liquid swirled around fresh mint leaves...the alcohol was there although it was hardly detectable :) yum- good choice Brian!

The sun started to dip and the wind picked up...we decided to head back to Bamboo to shower and change for dinner. But not before I read one more chapter in the hammock :) The shower was interesting. I tried my best not to think about the path the water took before it was hitting my skin but it was difficult. I know it's natural and probably much more 'green' but still. I guess I never though much about where water comes from...but here it's almost impossible not to think about it...

Brian took some sunset shots, it was pretty cool to have such great views from our room...and we let down the mosquito netting, doused ourselves in a healthy dose of DEET and headed up to the lobby...

We ran into Janet and Peter again (you will notice this becomes a common theme) and there was another couple from Alberta Canada: Scott and Jill. These 2 were super high energy and have been pretty much everywhere...they also love to scuba dive and were headed to Big Corn Island on Monday (the caribbean side of Nicaragua). Scott was telling me about a particularly memorable dive where he saw unicorns...I was like, huh? He's like yeah- unicorns they were so tiny, blah blah blah and I was like hmm I thought unicorns were mythical creatures...hen Jill chimed in and corrected him: seahorses is what he meant ;) I later thought Scott meant manatees when he actually was talking about manarays...oh well.

Dinner was fresh fish from the lake which Brian had and I tried the vegetarian option, lentil stew. It seemed a bit heavy (and later would prove it was too heavy) but the fact that the lake was brown weirded me out to eat anyhing from it...I had a glass of Sav Blanc (what else?) and Brian enjoyed a few more mojitos...

More bantering with the three other couples and staff and we headed back to our room...with our 'torches' to guide us. It was downright balmy and we kept the shades open but the moon was so bright! I was startled awake a few hours later with overwhelming nausea...I tried to ignore it but eventually jumped up just in time to make it to the shower drain. Let's just say none of my dinner stayed down...for the rest of the night I was convinced it was early symptoms of malaria (and was cursing myself for not taking prophylaxis) but was relieved with the sunrise and resolution of my symptoms...it was also especially nice to see the morning light over Volcan Concepcion...