We quickly changed and met up with Janet and Peter in the lobby...Peter had fallen asleep to his kindle but quickly jumped to attention (we all wanted to make the most of the sun's attempts to pierce the otherwise overcast day) and we headed for their car...it was a 2-door white Suzuki, not sure the model but it reminded me of a Rav4. We squeezed into the backseat and *buckled up*. I was nervous, even moreso after our rough start (Peter stalled out a couple of times before we headed down the steep descent out of Totoco) but if nothing else, this would surely be an adventure! So, wtf? We didn't even really know where we were going (not that there were many roads on this island)...but the twists and turns and rocks and livestock proved to be a challenge and I crossed my fingers that we wouldn't experience any car trouble (or other trouble for that matter). Peter kept inadvertently hitting the horn at the most appropriate moments (i.e. when headed straight for a ___insert farm animal here___ ); which attracted attention from passerby and kept us all in hysterics. I am thankful to Peter for keeping us safe on such a torturous road with unfamiliar terrain...and I am quite thankful for such effective seatbelts.
---On a more serious side note---I should mention that I couldn't help but feel a bit awkward driving around the island without a local. We passed many native islanders either walking, riding unhealthy looking horses or bikes in various states of disrepair, women struggling down the roads balancing enormous baskets on their heads...all these people going about their normal day without access to such luxuries that we -as Americans- take for granted...like vehicles. Roslyn had explained how most people cannot afford to own cars here. First off, they are more expensive than in the US and on top of that- it is impossible to get an interest rate under 26%! And the rates constantly change- there is no such thing as a fixed auto loan in Nicaragua. Not to mention the cost of maintenance on these roads! Roslyn said they need to fix tires about every 2-3000 miles; that's more often than I need an oil change! A young girl pushing a bicycle, about the age of 10, held out her thumb to us on the road...I couldn't help but feel guilty for being tourists in their country and just recreationally having access to such a sturdy vehicle. I will definitely consider donating my car to someone in Nicaragua if I am ever at the point where I no longer need one and/or will be buying a new one. The cars here may seem ancient, but the people consider them precious---
Brian- in his effort to be helpful- spotted a sign in the opposite direction which prompted a couple of unnecessary U-turns but ultimately we found it...The eye of the water. We pulled up to an older man sitting under a thatched hut with a few children and stray dogs. Flies buzzed about his head as he beamed at us about the natural healing wonders of these waters...he spoke only in Spanish and amongst the four of us we caught that the water is filled with all kinds of volcanic minerals with healing and anti-aging powers. He told us that a 100 year old woman stepped out of the waters feeling as if she were only 40 and we would experience that too. He seemed so genuinely excited about it and was completely oblivious to the flies circling his head...they were everywhere here...so far all over the island but they usually hung out more at ground level...I guess with all the water here maybe there are more? We paid our $2 entradas each and drove in to the dirt parking lot.
There were locals and tourists alike enjoying the healing wonders of the waters...some Nicaraguans immersed in the water fully clothed (in their typical fashion), relaxing alongside the water or manning their tables of handicrafts. The dry dirt turned to mud and we zigzagged our way through to the edge of the water...circling around to the other side crossing a makeshift bridge separating a smaller pool from the larger pool until we found several chairs together. The water was cool but felt warmer than the pool at Totoco...and in the trees above our heads, green parrots squawked. Brian and Janet were the first ones in...Janet kept saying how young she felt once she jumped in :) and promised me her towel if I would "just get in already". I slowly eased myself in eventually...just in time for the clouds to drift overhead and spit out a few isolated raindrops. Brian had his water camera and we made several attempts at getting a good underwater shot...he kept cheating by opening his eyes and even smiling!
The water was clear but I wished I had water shoes -as the bottom (which was possible to touch in certain places) was coated with algae and rocks. But I made Brian hold me up most of the time, which I don't think he minded :)
We didn't stay very long...the wind picked up and the clouds threatened further rain...I was grateful for Janet's towel (thanks Janet!!)
We were surprised to see rather large puddles on the way back up the volcano...turns out that Totoco got the worst of the rainfall. We persuaded Pablo to let us use another room for a HOT shower (with an electric "suicide" box) and not just a lukewarm one through the compost pile. Since Jill and Scott left today, their room was free and he slipped us the keys. I <3 Pablo. That shower was INcredible. By the time dinner rolled around I really wasn't that hungry and the vegetarian option of Asian inspired vegetable crepes really wasn't all that appealing but I did pick at it. I was acutely aware of wasting food here and felt bad, but I guess my stomach wasn't completely back to normal yet. Brian had "grass fed beef"...(was there really any other types of beef on this island??) and caramel flan was dessert. Janet even let me borrow her iPad to blog using their sporadic wifi while Brian busied himself with making plans for tomorrow and snapping some great night shots...stars feel so close here...
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